Friday, April 24, 2015

Laos: Vientiane (September 2014)


        If Kampot, Cambodia was the surprise hit town of my travels, then Laos was certainly the surprise hit country of my travels.  When I was traveling around China five years ago, I had heard a fellow traveler laud Vang Vieng, Laos as the Holy Grail of SE Asia Party Capitals (more on that later), I knew that I was eventually somehow going to make my way to Laos.

Five years later, it became a reality.

Visualize and actualize! That should be my motto, as it has become a recurring theme of my life for the past five or so years.

Anyway, after traveling through Cambodia on my own, and having only a couple of “hostel buddies” in the last couple weeks, I was more than ready to meet my travel buddy for the next few weeks, the wonderful and wild Mary!  I taught English with Mary in Daejeon for two years.  We arrived in Korea at the same time and had the same orientation.  Mary and I had been acquaintances for a while, but developed more of a friendship during our second year in Korea.

After collecting my luggage in the spookily-close-to-being empty airport I found one lonely tuk tuk driver just outside the terminal’s parking lot. At every other airport I’ve been to, a flank of taxi drivers is available to take me anywhere I please (within reason, of course). It wasn’t as though I had taken a red eye flight and arrived in the middle of the night. No, this was 7 p.m.

If it had not been for that lone tuk tuk driver I don’t know what I would have done!

Mary was waiting in the foyer of the hostel when I arrived, and we were, of course, super excited to see each other. We went out to dinner and had some beers to commence our 3 or so weeks of travel together.

The next day we rented bicycles to take in Vientiane. The central part of Vientiane has retained some of the aspects of its French colonial period. This includes, most visibly, the architecture. Colorful French apartments and mansions line the streets. There are also some cafes and restaurants that style themselves (atmospherically and gastronomically!) after the traditionally haughty French equivalents.

Among the highlights of our bike riding was Vientiane’s very own Arc de Triomphe, Patuxai. Ironically, the Patuxai was built to memorialize the Laotians who fought for independence from the French. We climbed up to the top to get a panoramic view of the city.

Besides that, we biked around a temple complex. Because Mary was wearing shorts, she had to wear a sort of improvised dress: I can’t for the life of me remember what they are called, but they are essentially very large, rectangular pieces of patterned cloth. Many of the temples in SE Asia provide them; sometimes they are of a lighter material, sometimes a heavier material. Unfortunately, they were made of wool at this particular temple, so Mary felt quite uncomfortable with it around her lower body in 80-degree weather.

By far the best part of our time in Vientiane was visiting the COPE (Cooperative Orthotic & Prosthetic Enterprise) Center.

Before I explain what the COPE Center actually does, it might help to provide a little background information. The following is an excerpt from the Lao Rehabilitation Foundation:

From 1964 to 1973 more than 580,000 bombing missions were launched over Laos by the U.S. Air Force, in a war that most of the Western world didn’t know about. As a result, more than two million tons of ordnance fell on Laos. The most widely used types of bombs were anti-personnel cluster bombs filled with 670 bomblets that were intended to explode on or shortly after impact. These bomblets, about the size of a tennis ball, are known as “bombies” in Laos. Each bombie contains around 250 steel pellets, which were meant to fire in a 2 to 4-meter radius when detonated, thus crippling but not killing enemy soldiers. The theory was that an injured soldier cost the enemy more than a dead one.

The biggest issue is not only are people accidentally stepping on some of these unexploded bombs and thereby getting severely injured or dying as a result, but some people (including children) actually seek out these unexploded bombs and “bombies” because they are worth quite a bit in scrap metal.

The primary mission of COPE is to provide prosthetic limbs, as well as medical supplies like braces and slints, to victims of these latent bombs. The other main thing is that they have direct involvement with teams made up of primarily Laotians being trained by bomb experts from Australia and elsewhere to find these bombs and disarm them.

If you feel inclined to donate to their cause, go here to do so!

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